One of France's mighty rivers--represented in Horse form, Place de Terraux. Lyon bills itself as France's culinary capital--most restaurants per capita, most Michelin stars in France (excepting Paris itself), serving traditional fare such as saucisse lyonnaise and quenelles de brochet Nantu (baked pike dumplings in a creamy langoustine sauce). And without exception, the food quality and dining experiences were outstanding. The city had a harder time putting its best foot forward, though. We got off the high-speed rail at Gare Part-Dieu to quite a bit of street desperation--not quite East Oakland and nowhere near as desperate as downtown LA, but a bit surprising compared to most other places we've been in France so far. The Croix Rousse neighborhood, the historic center of the silk-making trade that was the source of Lyon's wealth for centuries, was covered in bad graffiti--and by bad, I mean random scrawlings, nothing that even attempted guerrilla art or murals and not ...